Gamosa, the traditional handloom artefact of Assam: A case study

Abstract

Gamosa handloom textile is the Traditional Cultural Expression of Assam. It usually has a white background with red stripes on its three sides and floral motifs on the fourth side towards its warp. It possesses sacred value and is offered as a sign of gratitude, affection, and respect. Gamosa is also available in yellow, green, brick red colour and, as per the community variations in the region of Assam. It is a widely consumed product for its varied utility and local community’s identity. Increasing demand of the product resulted in its rapid commercialisation through power loom replica, affecting the social and economic output of indigenous weavers. This led to the present-day infringement, community trademark violation of Gamosa and revenue leakage to its value chain in Assam. This paper addresses the perilous condition due to industrial powerloom disruption and the societal importance of traditional knowledge of Gamosa handloom artefact through quasi-legal tools as well as IPR instruments. The methodology used in the study is ethnographical study of the stakeholders/weavers and select interviews with the subject matter experts. This research discusses the gap acting as a catalyst for the value leakage in the Gamosa supply chain. The diminishing authenticity of the product is due to the gap between the consumer demand and what the stakeholders/weavers producing as per the common market demand. The limitation of the present study is detailed ethnographic study of custodians of Gamosa and Xipinie institution, which varies from district to district in the state.