Merging phytochemistry and polymer science to develop a peel-off mask for its potential use in the treatment of hyperpigmentation

BASAK et al.: SCREENING PHYTOCHEMICALS TO TREAT HYPERPIGMENTATION AND DEVELOP A PEEL-OFF MASK FORMULATION

Abstract

Overproduction of melanin due to overexpression of tyrosinase stands responsible for various skin disorders/pigmentations. The use of kojic acid, mequinol, hydroquinone, or topical retinoids in hyperpigmentation can potentially cause irritation to the skin (dermal sensitization), DNA damage, and cancer at therapeutic doses. This study aims to highlight the phytochemicals that can multitarget 3 major dermatological targets, namely tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase, and simultaneously optimize the polymer blend to develop a peel-off mask for the topical delivery of the bioactives. A total of 206 phytochemicals were chosen for the virtual screening to identify the hit compounds that can potentially act as
skin-lightening agents. In-vitro tyrosinase inhibition assay for 4 hit molecules was performed. The cytotoxicity of the treatment solution and its effect on the H₂O₂-stressed environment were studied against the murine fibroblast cell line (L929). Subsequently, a bioactive-loaded peel-off mask formulation was developed for its cosmetic application. Considering hesperidin as a standard, our results listed 11 such bioactive compounds that can potentially act as multi-targeted inhibitors of all the 3 chosen receptors. The results indicate an inhibitory effect on oxidative stress in fibroblasts. The peel-off mask formulation exhibited the desired properties with short drying time and smooth surface morphology (SEM analysis).
The bioactive compounds that are highlighted as hit molecules necessitate further investigations following
in-vivo experiments to establish effective alternatives in the treatment of hyperpigmentation with minimal side effects.