A Study on the influence of weave parameters on fabric fraying and performance in recycled fabrics

Abstract

Fabric fraying is considered a major problem in the apparel industry, as excessive fraying reduces seam allowances,
causes quality issues such as size jumps, and leads to rejections during quality audits. This study started with identifying the
root cause of fraying that happens in existing samples, including plain, warp rib, matt, and ordinary honeycomb weave, and
then compared with newly developed samples such as combination plain, 2x2 twill, herringbone, and Brighton honeycomb
across different groups in terms of fraying behavior and performance. All samples had the same yarn count, thread density,
and fabric composition, differing only in their weave structure. The weave parameters, such as the Crossing Over Firmness
Factor (CFF) and Floating Yarn Factor (FYF), were studied in relation to fabric properties, including tensile strength, tearing
strength, seam strength, seam slippage, and air permeability, to assess fraying behaviour. Results indicated that CFF had a
strong positive correlation with tensile strength (r = +0.81, + 0.78) and resistance to seam slippage (r = +0.87, +0.96), but a
strong negative correlation to air permeability (r = - 0.70). FYF exhibited reverse trends. Combination plain weave,
Herringbone weave and Brighton Honeycomb weave were the best weaves with respect to fray resistance and fabric
performance. These results provide useful information to enhance fabric quality and minimize waste during garment
production in the apparel industry.